The best time to prepare a garden for a hot, dry summer is before the plants begin to struggle.
In early August, the Bureau of Meteorology confirmed that El Niño was firmly established and continuing to strengthen. Oceanic and atmospheric indicators were consistent with a strong event, with further intensification likely through spring and a peak expected in late spring or summer. The Bureau’s latest long-range forecast also indicates above-average temperatures across much of Australia, with below-average spring rainfall likely across parts of the south and east.
That does not make the season entirely predictable. The Bureau cautions that a strong El Niño signal does not necessarily produce equally strong local effects, and ENSO is only one of several influences on Australia’s climate. For a Sydney gardener, the useful response is preparation rather than panic: improve the way the garden holds and receives water now, then adjust care as the weather unfolds.
1. Check the irrigation before the first hot spell
Do not wait for a week of extreme heat to discover a split line, flat controller battery or blocked dripper.
Run every irrigation zone and walk through the garden while it operates. Look for dry gaps, leaks, damaged tubes, blocked emitters and sprays landing on paving or walls. Check that plants with very different needs are not being watered on the same program.
Growing Rooms installs a rain sensor with every irrigation system, so scheduled watering is suspended when useful rain arrives. We use Hunter NODE-BT Bluetooth controllers in many of our gardens, allowing clients to review and adjust the program from a nearby phone.
If you are deciding whether an automatic system is worthwhile, our guide to irrigation systems versus hand watering explains how zoning, drip delivery, programming and rain sensing affect water efficiency.
2. Find out what is happening below the surface
Soil can look damp at the surface while remaining dry around the roots. After watering, use a small trowel or soil probe to check how far the moisture has travelled. If the top few millimetres are wet but the soil below is dry, a quick daily sprinkle is not doing enough.
Water needs to soak into the root zone without running away across compacted soil. Where water pools or runs off, shorter irrigation cycles with pauses between them can help it absorb. Soil preparation and organic matter can also improve water-holding capacity, but additions should suit the existing soil and planting rather than being applied indiscriminately.
New planting, lawns and pots require closer observation because their roots have less access to stored moisture. Established drought-tolerant plants may need much less frequent support.
3. Top up mulch before the weather becomes extreme
Mulch shades the soil, slows evaporation and helps reduce weed competition. It is one of the simplest ways to make irrigation more effective.
Top up thin or bare areas in spring, after removing weeds and watering dry soil. Spread mulch evenly rather than piling it deeply against trunks, crowns or plant stems, where retained moisture can cause problems.
Different gardens call for different materials. An organic mulch can suit informal and densely planted beds, while gravel may be appropriate for some dry, architectural planting. The important consideration is how it behaves on the site: very fine mulch can wash down a slope, while thick, matted layers may prevent water from reaching the soil.
4. Decide which plants need priority
During dry weather, watering every part of a garden equally is rarely the best use of water.
Give priority to:
- recently planted trees, shrubs and groundcovers
- pots and raised planters, which dry faster than garden beds
- plants exposed to hot western sun and reflected heat
- areas beneath eaves that miss light rainfall
- valuable established trees showing genuine moisture stress
Mature, well-established plants suited to the site may need less intervention. Grouping plants with similar water requirements makes this judgement easier and prevents drought-tolerant planting from being overwatered simply because it shares a zone with thirstier species.
5. Protect pots and sensitive planting from radiant heat
A plant may be exposed to more than the air temperature. Masonry walls, dark fences, paving and pool surrounds can store and reflect heat long after the sun has moved.
Move portable pots out of severe afternoon sun before a heatwave, or group them where they receive some shelter. Check that containers drain freely and consider whether a larger pot would provide a more stable volume of soil around the roots.
For newly installed or vulnerable plants, temporary shade cloth can reduce stress during an exceptional hot spell. Position it so air can move around the foliage and remove it once conditions ease. This is short-term protection, not a substitute for selecting plants suited to the position.
6. Help plants establish deeper roots
Frequent light watering encourages roots to remain close to the surface, where the soil heats and dries quickly. A slower, more thorough watering generally supports deeper rooting and creates a more resilient plant.
The right frequency will vary with soil, slope, plant type and weather. Check the soil rather than relying on a universal timetable. A newly planted garden still needs regular establishment watering, even when the plants are considered drought tolerant once mature.
Avoid heavy pruning during extreme heat unless damaged growth creates a safety issue. A plant with a healthy canopy can shade its own stems and root zone. Schedule substantial pruning and planting for milder conditions wherever possible.
7. Be realistic about the lawn
A lawn is often the thirstiest part of a residential garden. Before summer, check irrigation coverage, aerate compacted areas where appropriate and address soil conditions so water can reach the roots.
Raise the mower height as the weather warms. Slightly longer grass shades the soil and supports deeper roots. Avoid removing too much leaf in one cut, particularly during hot or dry weather.
It may also be sensible to accept a lawn that is less intensely green through a difficult summer. Trying to maintain a lush spring appearance through every heatwave can consume large amounts of water. Focus on keeping the lawn healthy enough to recover rather than forcing constant soft growth.
8. Adjust the plan as the season changes
An irrigation controller should not run the same program in September, January and May. Review the schedule after rain, during cool changes and as plants establish.
Continue to inspect the garden between programmed cycles. Wilting does not always mean a plant needs more water; root damage, poor drainage and excess watering can create similar symptoms. Check the soil before increasing the program.
Sydney Water’s Water Wise Guidelines apply throughout the year. At the time of writing, gardens may be watered with drinking water before 10 am or after 4 pm. Drip irrigation and smart watering systems may also be used between 10 am and 4 pm, and water must not be allowed to run onto hard surfaces.
A resilient garden begins with its design
The strongest protection against a hot, dry summer is a garden designed for its site. Suitable plants, healthy soil, useful shade, layered planting, sensible lawn areas and well-planned irrigation all reduce the amount of emergency care required later.
Preparation does not mean turning every garden into a dry landscape. It means matching water use to the plants and conditions, then creating a system that can be adjusted intelligently as the season changes.
If you would like help preparing an existing garden or planning a more resilient new landscape, speak with the Growing Rooms team. We can review planting, soil, irrigation and maintenance together so the whole garden is ready for the warmer months.